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Annegret's Namibia Diary

Posted by Annegret Pfeifer on Jul 12th 2024

Annegret's Namibia Diary

A lot of you have inquired about my trip to Namibia, and I can say that this was a life changing adventure, and it has taken me this long to process it. I thank you for your patience. So, without further ado, here is my recollection of this great rip.

My brother Martin and his wife Iris went to Zambia, Africa 39 years ago on a peace mission and fell in love with the people, country and continent. Their first stay was in Zambia, where they founded a trade school. He taught the guys to build furniture, which they auctioned off at graduation. From this money he was able to give every graduate a tool chest which they could use to start their own business. Iris taught the ladies how to sew and grow crops in the garden and how to sell both at the local markets. When they returned to Germany 4 years later they did not stay very long, Africa was calling. Their next contract was in Rwanda, which they had to flee during the genocide in 1994 with their two small children. That is a story all in itself. Their next assignment sent them to Zimbabwe and this last one to Namibia, where they have lived for the last 6 years. We always met them in Germany during our home visits. We took apartments in the same small village and our kids played together during the summers. When my brother and his wife decided to retire this summer, it was time for me to finally visit them in Africa.

Martin offered to take me camping and plan a trip through Namibia, which was simply the most ultimate travel experience I could have dreamed of. Once our kids heard about it, they carefully inquired if they could join and somehow, despite a lot of challenges, we all managed to meet up in Windhoek, Namibia during a two week window. For the three of us it was without any doubt, the trip of a lifetime.

I met up with our daughter, Dana, in Frankfurt Germany, and we took a night flight to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia and then to Windhoek. Jonathan flew via Frankfurt, Johannesburg and Windhoek a couple of days later. Walking through Addis Ababa airport I got the feeling of being at the gate of Africa, the Middle East and Asia. Masses of people from all nations and cultures were arriving, meeting up, weaving harmoniously through each other to eventually depart at another gate. It was fascinating to observe. Compared to that, the US actually felt quite homogeneous.

Arriving at Windhoek, Namibia airport, reminded me a bit of Kalispell when we first arrived 18 years ago. Everyone walked across the airfield to the airport building, where immigration was friendly, personal and quick. Most of the travelers were tourists, curious to explore Namibia, which in return was happy to welcome all of them, as each of them means income and work for Namibians.

Namibia is approximately 2 x larger than Montana and with a population of ~2.6 million people the world’s second least populated country. Considering that Montana has less than 1.2 million people, you get an idea why we call ourselves the Last Best Place.

On our way to my brothers home from the airport we saw the first Baboon, hanging out on a telephone pole. We got warned that they are assertive little fellows, especially when they come in crowds, which is why Namibians like to walk with a walking stick - to show Baboons their assertiveness as well.

On our first evening, Martin made a sundowner (sunset) drink for each of us and we climbed up a ladder to the rooftop. Overlooking the neighborhood and mountains, we learned that it is a good thing to know in the morning, where to drink the sundowner in the evening.

The next day, my family showed us around in Windhoek. For lunch we went to a culinary school, which was adjacent to a restaurant. The head instructor is from Germany and thus, we got treated to one of the most sophisticated tasting German meals. It blew me away. I never had Spaetzle in natural rainbow colors before, and the simple red cabbage was the best tasting one I ever had. We learned that many of the tourists are from Germany and that the lodges love to prepare their native meals

My brother showed us THE meteoroid, which was simply displayed in the middle of the city. Apparently, a meteoroid is worth more than gold, which did explain that a couple of them had disappeared. Considering that Namibia has an official unemployment rate around 20%, yet easily over 40% unofficially, it is a miracle that only two of the meteoroids have disappeared.

For our second sundowner we went to a lodge overlooking the valley. Combined with the company of my family and a charcuterie board of native meats it was simply divine.

Planning meeting while starting an early sundowner

On our third day, we started our camping trip south to Sossusvlei. This is an area with amazing old dunes and walking up the untouched rim of them early in the morning was thrilling. To feel the sun, the wind prickled with flying sand, the feet sinking deep in the coarse red sand, while being surrounded by never ending dunes was almost unreal. And then, descending down, at the side of dune, like a flying sandwalker was thrilling.

That was till you tumble face down and become the sand eater when taking a plunge walking down the side of the sand dunes.

From Sossusvlei we headed up to Walvis Bay at the coast. This is the only viable port town on the Namibian coast and home of many birds and especially flamingos. You find flocks of them all the way up and down the beaches. At night they move out to deeper waters and further away from shore to protect themselves from predators coming from the land. Usually they fly to Botswana to breed. Since there was no rain there, which means not enough food for the summer, they had stayed at the coast in Walvis Bay that season. This meant no breeding either. We found it amazing how the animals knew that there was no rain in Botswana. The elephants knew as well, and all the other animals.

Enjoying a walk along the beach in Walvis Bay

This connection to the analog senses appeared to be more prevalent in the Namibian culture as well. We encountered it when the street vendors insisted to haggle with us. No fun to just pay them. That meant to establish a relationship with the other person first and only then eventually come to an agreement of the exchange of goods and money. This takes time and a willingness to deal with the other person. We experienced it as quite different to just paying a price and walking on.

Martin and Iris explained that in Namibia, it is first important that you are a good person to me. If you would steal from me, or lie to me, you could not just heal this by telling me the truth or by returning the goods. You would have broken the trust with me. And how do you heal that?

From Walvis Bay we headed to Spitzkoppe, the area of the Damara tribe. There, my brother was excited about the perfect camping space, that offered both shade and sun exposure for the solar panel. I could not quite follow his logic and when he set up the solar panel facing north I carefully pointed that out. We looked at each other for a moment and then he laughed: “We are in the southern hemisphere Annegret, the sun is shining from the North, A!” “Right!” and with that it was like everything tumbled upside down in me to finally grasp the immensity of my travel to not only this new continent, yet also the southern hemisphere. The remaining evening our conversations came back to this kind of topic…. how the water swirls down the drain the opposite way when one crosses the equator, that one of my brother’s bucket list item is to spend solstice in Finland, etc. And it was these conversations we had over hundreds of miles of gravel roads, salt highways and camping evenings that really made this trip special for the 4 of us, to exchange ideas, experiences, different thoughts on issues, and appreciate each other's insights and enjoy connecting once again that made this a trip of a lifetime.

In Spitzkoppe we enjoyed walking up a grippy granite mountain that stuck out like an island in a flat ocean of desert. We also took a guide to look at ancient bushmen drawings. His insight and love for the area that he is able to live in and afford to make a living in was truly precious to us.

We then headed further north to Etosha National Park. We observed Springbocks, Zebras, Emus, Lions, Wilde Beast, Kudus, Zebras, Elephants, just to name the most obvious ones. I was struck by how graceful they all moved through the bush, with such elegance and ease!

And I was most impressed by the group dynamics we observed with the elephants. One day, two young males approached the waterhole ahead of their group. The smaller one was hurrying to stay way ahead of the older one. He went straight for the spot where the freshwater bubbled in. When the older one arrived, he pushed the younger one to the side and occupied the fresh water for himself. Once he had stilled his thirst, the younger one started to wrangle him for this most desireable spot. It was funny to see how he distracted the older one and snuck his trunk in the freshwater behind him. It was like watching two young boys measuring their wits and strength in this jovial way.

Carefully waiting to see when the fresh water well can be approached.

Yet, as soon as the remaining herd moved in, the fresh water well was reserved to the oldest of the elephants. Everyone knew their rank. The babies could not get enough of spraying water on themselves and each other and rolling and swimming in the pond. When an elephant from another herd approached the water hole, some of the younger strong males stopped him. He had to wait in a respectful distance till the herd had left the place. We felt very privileged to be allowed to watch so many Elephant group dynamics during our time in Etosha Park.

I could tell more for hours, yet here is one more that was very unique to us – termites. Many of you might know them from the southern part of the USA. Yet, in Namibia, they are part of the landscape – see their mound? Yes, termite mounds 6’ and taller just sticking out in the landscape. Almost like we see hay bales in Montana. Only, hay bales don’t destroy the road overnight. If you ever look for an interesting read, search for ‘termites’ on the internet. It is the most interesting of species. Driving along those mounds one can’t help but wonder what other world is going on in the ground beneath us…lol.

Termite towers in the fields of Namibia like hay rolls in Montana

What saved my skin in the very dry and hot climate of the Namibian desert? You guessed it, our Vitamin E Serum! Which inspired us to make it such a big special for you in May.

Namibia is the country of natural resources and many gemstones. Consequently, we drove across the homeland of the mica of our lip shimmers. When we stepped out of the car, we had mica on our shoes and in the end everywhere in the car. It was one of many wonderful experiences.

We enjoyed the many insights my brother and his wife had about the culture, politics and traditions of Namibia and Africa. It made for many good conversations. I am very grateful for the days connecting with Martin, Iris and my kids and this privileged introduction to Namibia. It for sure was, as my kids put it, a once in a lifetime amazing trip. If you ever want to explore the African continent, try Namibia, it offers a wide variety of landscapes and it is a wonderful and safe country to travel and it caters lovingly to tourists.